Models walked a runway inside the Louvre courtyard on an unseasonably warm October evening, wearing silk slip dresses and breezy tunics. The temperature in Paris remained at 24 degrees Celsius as the sun set, a detail that designer Nicolas Ghesquiere said directly influenced his latest collection for Louis Vuitton. He stated that the world is getting warmer and that this reality had a strong influence on his creative direction.
Futuristic Set Design at the Louvre
The show was staged in an inner courtyard of the historic museum, creating a sharp contrast between classical architecture and modern technology. The catwalk was illuminated by the tail lights of 34 flying cars. These vehicles, painted in the brand’s signature Damier check pattern, were raised on stilts above the models. The setup served as an elegant echo of the museum’s centerpiece, the glass pyramid designed by I.M. Pei, which stands amidst French classical buildings.
Ghesquiere has long been known for his science fiction-inspired designs, but this season he focused specifically on city life in a warming world. He described imagining a woman walking through traffic and feeling both vulnerable and strong in the urban environment. The set design reinforced this narrative, placing the models as pedestrians among hovering vehicles.
Lighter Fabrics for a Changing Climate
The clothing itself marked a departure from the angular, ornate looks that have defined Ghesquiere’s tenure. The collection featured featherlight fabrics and free-floating silhouettes, including gossamer layers of chiffon and beaded silver fringes that resembled space-age hair extensions. Ghesquiere explained that while he is a specialist in architectural fashion, the current climate demands a different wardrobe. He noted that clothes need to be relevant for today and the future, necessitating a shift in how the brand approaches design.
Notable attendees included Zendaya, who wore a ruffled organza jacket, and Bella Maclean, who appeared in sleek black tailoring. Ghesquiere took his bow casually dressed in jeans. The show was only his second major moment of Paris Fashion Week, as Louis Vuitton is the flagship brand of luxury giant LVMH. The company contributes approximately 1% to French GDP, placing it at the core of the country’s economic and cultural power.
On the same day, Ghesquiere was knighted by President Emmanuel Macron at the Élysée Palace. The president joked during the ceremony that it felt strange to be decorating someone who is used to looking at his wife from every angle. First Lady Brigitte Macron has a longstanding collaboration with the designer, often wearing custom looks for state occasions. Guests at the knighting included Catherine Deneuve, British designer Phoebe Philo, and K-pop star Felix of Stray Kids. Ghesquiere wore a striking double-breasted black suit with no lapel while receiving the medal.
Source: The Guardian
