A new offshoot of a popular New York brasserie has opened its doors in Neal’s Yard, bringing a touch of Gallic glamour to the heart of Covent Garden. Buvette London occupies a space surrounded by holistic therapy rooms and wellness shops, a stark contrast to the traditional dining establishments typically found in the area. The restaurant aims to attract a younger demographic with a menu that features classic French dishes such as croque monsieur, salmon rillettes, and salade niçoise.
A Familiar French Concept
This London branch is part of Jody Williams’ West Village gastrothèque, offering a limited menu of 25 dishes, none priced above £18. The concept is designed to be approachable, resembling the style of Café Rouge, a chain known for its recognizable, if somewhat simplified, version of French cafe culture. The interior features marble-topped tables, bentwood chairs, and a zinc bar, creating a pretty and charming atmosphere. Despite the appealing decor, the 80-cover space remains relatively quiet during midweek lunches, suggesting that the restaurant is still finding its footing in a competitive local market.
The location marks Buvette’s second attempt to establish itself in London. Its previous venture in Notting Hill, which opened in 2020, closed after just four years. This new opening in Neal’s Yard faces the challenge of balancing its cool, coy aesthetic with the need to attract everyday diners who might be intimidated by the French theme. The restaurant is positioned as a quick stop for a café au lait or a longer lunch, rather than a destination for serious foodies or the local yoga community who often frequent nearby juice bars.
Food and Value in Covent Garden
Despite the initial hesitation from some diners, the food at Buvette London receives praise for its quality and execution. The croque madame is described as a noble attempt, featuring thick white bread, melted cheese, ham, and a vivid egg yolk, garnished with crunchy cornichons. The grilled salmon is served with sauce ravigote, dressed green beans, and a petite salade verte, with the fish cooked to retain moisture and crisp skin. Shared dishes like pommes frites and salade de chicken are noted for their sharp dressing and meaty texture.
The set lunch menu offers significant value, priced at £23 for a main course, two sides, and a coffee. Options include salmon with green beans and salad, a burger with fries and salad, or a croque with two salads. This pricing is particularly notable in Covent Garden, where dining costs are typically much higher. The restaurant also serves warm scones with raspberry jam and cream, as well as almond croissants, providing a sweet end to the meal.
Buvette London is located at 2 Neal’s Yard, London WC2. It is open all week for lunch from 11:30 am to 4:00 pm and for dinner from 4:00 pm to 9:00 pm, with extended hours until 10:00 pm on Thursdays through Saturdays. The average cost for a meal is around £40 per person for à la carte dining, while the formule set lunch is available for £23. All prices exclude drinks and service charges.
Source: The Guardian
