London chef Jackson Boxer has shared a recipe for a vegetarian pumpkin soup that relies on the deep, nutty flavor of browned butter and roasted delica pumpkin. The dish is designed to be simple to prepare while delivering a complex, concentrated taste that avoids the blandness often associated with vegetable purees.
Roasting the pumpkin with browned butter
The foundation of the soup involves roasting a single 800g delica pumpkin. Boxer cuts the pumpkin in half, removes the seeds, and places the halves cut-side up in a roasting tray. He then pours 250ml of vegetable bouillon into the tray to surround the pumpkin.
The key technique is the preparation of the butter. Boxer simmers 250g of butter in a frying pan over high heat. He notes that the initial stage involves evaporating the water content, which prevents the butter from reaching the temperature needed for caramelization. Once the foaming stops, the heat is reduced to allow the milk solids and sugars to brown. The process happens gradually and then suddenly, requiring close attention to prevent burning.
When the butter is rich and nutty, it is poured evenly over the pumpkin halves. The tray is then covered with greaseproof paper and tightly sealed with foil. The pumpkin bakes at 195C (175C fan) for 45 minutes. The pumpkin is done when a sharp knife meets no resistance and comes out clean.
Boxer explicitly states that he does not bother peeling the pumpkin before roasting. He acknowledges that cooked pumpkin skin is an acquired taste, but leaves it on for the recipe.
Blending and seasoning
After roasting, the pumpkin is cut into chunks. The flesh, along with the bouillon from the roasting tray, is transferred to a food processor and blitzed into a smooth puree. Boxer adds 10g of flaky sea salt and sherry vinegar to the mix. He advises tasting and adjusting the seasoning at this stage. If the puree is too thick, he suggests adding more vegetable broth to loosen it, noting that the consistency will depend on the water content of the pumpkin and how airtight the foil seal was during roasting.
The puree is then transferred to a large saucepan and reheated gently. Boxer warns against boiling the soup. The final step involves checking the seasoning and acidity before ladling the soup into bowls.
For serving, Boxer recommends topping the soup with creme fraiche, chilli oil, toasted pumpkin seeds, ground black pepper, and a squeeze of lemon. He also suggests other garnishes such as toasted croutons, fried sage leaves, chilli and garlic butter, or salsa verde.
Boxer is the chef and owner of Brunswick House, Vesper, and Dove in London. He also serves as the culinary director of Cowley Manor near Cheltenham and the Henrietta in London.
Source: The Guardian
