British designer Martine Rose has been appointed creative director of Balenciaga, marking the first time in the luxury fashion house’s 109-year history that a woman will lead the brand. The appointment signals a significant shift in an industry long dominated by white men, with Rose becoming only the second Black woman to head a major European fashion house.
Historic Leadership Change at Balenciaga
Rose succeeds Pierpaolo Piccioli, whose departure from the Spanish brand was announced on Thursday after an 18-month tenure. Her selection follows the 2025 appointment of Grace Wales Bonner as men’s creative director at Hermès, highlighting a broader trend of diverse leadership in high fashion.
Luca de Meo, chief executive of Kering, the parent company that also owns Gucci, Bottega Veneta, and Saint Laurent, described the move as a reflection of the group’s ambition to keep Balenciaga at the forefront of innovation and culture. De Meo stated that Rose’s connection to the new generation and her instinctive understanding of culture bring a new dimension to the house.
“It is a true privilege to be appointed creative director of Balenciaga, a house with an extraordinary heritage and a fearless creative spirit,” Rose said in a statement. “Balenciaga has been shaped by remarkable creative talents before me. I am committed to honouring this legacy and look forward to creating the next chapter in this rich and beautiful story.”
From London Subcultures to Global Luxury
Rose launched her eponymous label in London in 2007, quickly establishing herself as an influential voice in menswear. Her designs are known for blending streetwear aesthetics with celebrations of British subcultures, drawing on influences ranging from football and reggae to northern soul. Her work has attracted high-profile wearers including Justin Bieber, Timothée Chalamet, Drake, Rihanna, and Hailey Bieber.
Notably, rapper Kendrick Lamar commissioned Rose for a custom varsity jacket emblazoned with the title of one of his songs for his 2025 Super Bowl half-time performance. Rose has also collaborated with Nike on a genderless tailored collection and served as guest creative director at Clarks, the first time in the footwear company’s 200-year history.
Before taking the helm at Balenciaga, Rose worked at the brand’s menswear division for three years during the tenure of Demna. During that period, she helped shape the label’s signature oversized identity. She will now oversee both men’s and women’s lines, expanding her creative scope significantly.
Kering’s Strategic Overhaul
The appointment is part of a wider restructuring of Kering’s portfolio under de Meo, who is attempting to revive the struggling luxury group. Rose’s background in community-focused events and unconventional show venues aligns with Kering’s desire to maintain Balenciaga’s reputation for radical creativity.
Known for staging presentations in non-traditional spaces, Rose has previously shown collections in a north London cul-de-sac, a primary school, and a shuttered gay sauna in south London. Her approach challenges conventional menswear rules, a sentiment she expressed in a 2023 interview where she noted her desire to break established norms.
Rose’s namesake brand has faced financial challenges, including rising manufacturing costs due to Brexit, and has not staged a show since June 2025. The Italian e-commerce firm the Level Group holds a majority stake in the business. Rose, who studied fashion at Middlesex University after a foundation year at Camberwell College of Arts, began her career with a T-shirt line before founding her current label with support from the Fashion East incubator.
Source: The Guardian
