A new sense of optimism is sweeping through Belgrade, the capital of Serbia, following recent parliamentary elections. For nearly two years, the city has been shaped by protests demanding accountability and an end to corruption. These demonstrations gained momentum after a concrete canopy collapsed at a railway station in Novi Sad in November 2024, killing 16 people. The student-led movement eventually led to a dramatic political shift, with a student-backed list winning an outright majority last month. While a new government is still being formed, crowds have gathered in Slavija Square, and celebrations have spilled into the streets and bars.
Neighborhoods and Cultural Sites
Belgrade sits at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. It is one of Europe’s oldest cities, known for its large student population and creative energy. The city blends historic streets and neoclassical buildings with modernist architecture and former industrial spaces. Dragana Kostica, a researcher and consultant who documents the city’s art and music scene through her platform Still in Belgrade, recommends exploring several key areas.
Kostica highlights Dorćol as a favorite neighborhood. The area features historic buildings and former workshops that now house independent galleries, specialty coffee shops, and contemporary restaurants. Graffiti and murals cover the walls, and the area is known for its lively atmosphere. Other notable neighborhoods include Kosančićev Venac, with its cobbled streets, and Savamala, located on the banks of the Sava river. Savamala is home to waterfront restaurants at Beton Hala. Vračar is another historic district known for its elegant old villas and the Nikola Tesla Museum.
For art and history, the National Museum offers collections spanning prehistoric finds from Lepenski Vir and the Vinča culture, as well as artifacts from Roman sites. Galerija Kula, located at Cetinjska 15 in a former brewery complex, showcases local artists and designers. The Museum of Contemporary Art (MoCAB), designed by Ivan Antić and Ivanka Raspopović, opened in 1965 and features Yugoslav modern and contemporary art. For shopping, Jane Doe is a vintage and design shop offering pieces from former Yugoslav labels and local designers.
Food, Markets, and Tours
Visitors can experience everyday life at local food markets. Zemun Market is located at Masarikov trg 17, Kalenić Market at Maksima Gorkog 2B, and Palilula Market at Ilije Garašanina 5A. These markets and surrounding areas offer street food such as roast pork, artisan bread, and ćevapi (kebab).
For traditional Serbian cuisine, Stara Hercegovina is a recommended spot. Diners can start with čorba, a hearty soup, followed by kolenica (pork knuckle) or pljeskavica, a grilled minced-meat patty. The meal is often accompanied by a šopska salad. Dessert options include tufahija, a walnut-stuffed poached apple, or a knedla, a sweet dumpling. For a modern take on Balkan cooking, Dragoljub offers creative plates made for sharing. Koordinata, located next to the National Theatre, focuses on farm-to-table dining with dishes like baked cabbage, river fish, and octopus. Stories, a small restaurant beside Kalemegdan Park, serves Georgian cuisine, including khinkali dumplings with fillings such as veal, lamb, or cheese and mint, as well as khachapuri.
To explore the city’s history and art, Kostica suggests taking a walking tour and street art workshop with Ljiljana Radosević. This tour reveals neighborhood loyalties and political tensions. For a different perspective, Still in Belgrade Tours offers a Yugoslav architecture tour by bike. This tour explores New Belgrade, highlighting broad boulevards and monumental buildings that reflect socialist-era ambitions and Le Corbusier’s planning principles.
Nightlife and Accommodation
Belgrade’s nightlife is centered around electronic music, which has been a key part of the city’s culture for over two decades. Esthetic Joys Embassy is a popular venue with retro Yugoslav-inspired interiors, combining Japanese food with DJ sets. BIFE is a cocktail and DJ bar in a former shopping center, offering signature cocktails for €8 to €10. Karmakoma is a favorite for dancing, featuring internationally acclaimed DJs and local talent playing techno, house, and disco.
For drinks, Ćilim bar is known for its whisky sours and pornstar martinis. Oliver’s is a wine bar in the old town with a New York feel. Visitors can stay at the Pavilion Hotel & Social Club in Dorćol, with doubles starting at about €89 a night. Hotel Balkan, located on the corner of Terazije and Prizrenska Street, dates back to 1860 and offers doubles from about €100 a night. Public transport, including buses, trams, and trolleybuses, is free in Belgrade.
Source: The Guardian
