The traditional Russian dish stroganoff is historically defined as a rich, savoury preparation of sautéed beef in soured cream, named after a 19th-century count, though the specific nobleman remains unidentified. While the dish originated centuries ago, it was not until the 20th century that onions and mushrooms were added to the recipe. Felicity Cloake has now evolved the dish further by removing the meat entirely, demonstrating that the result remains deeply flavourful without it.
Preparing the mushroom base
The recipe relies on a combination of dried porcini, white or chestnut button mushrooms, and field mushrooms to build complexity. Begin by placing 15g of dried porcini in a heatproof bowl and pouring 200ml of just-boiled water over them to soak. While the fungi rehydrate, peel and thinly slice two large onions.
Heat a wide frying pan over medium-low heat and melt 25g of butter. Add the onions along with a pinch of salt and a good grating of nutmeg or ground allspice. Stir regularly to prevent burning until the onions are soft, golden, and sweet. Transfer the cooked onions to a bowl, leaving the butter in the pan.
Increase the heat to medium-high and add the button mushrooms to the residual butter. Sauté until they are softened and well browned, then add them to the bowl with the onions. If the button mushrooms are small, leave them whole; if large, cut them into halves or quarters.
Cooking the field mushrooms and sauce
Brush the field mushrooms, trim them, and cut them into roughly 1.5cm-thick slices. Return the pan to medium-high heat. Once hot, add the sliced mushrooms with a very light sprinkling of salt. Cook for eight to 10 minutes, turning occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated and the pan sound changes from a hiss to a sizzle.
Add the remaining 25g of butter to the pan and continue frying the field mushrooms for seven to 10 minutes. Turn them frequently until they are glossy, rich, and golden brown. Transfer these sliced mushrooms to a second bowl. The dish can be prepared ahead of time up to this specific point.
Strain the porcini soaking liquid to remove any grit and add it to the pan to deglaze the base. Gradually whisk in 250ml of soured cream, preferably Polish śmietana, which has a higher fat content and is less likely to curdle. Stir in one tablespoon of Polish sarepska or English mustard and heat the mixture very gently.
Return the fried onions and button mushrooms to the pan. Finely chop the drained soaked porcini and stir them into the sauce. Allow the mixture to simmer very gently for 10 minutes. If the sauce curdles, it will look unappetising but remains safe to eat. Stir in the fried field mushrooms towards the end of the simmering process.
Season the vegetarian mushroom stroganoff to taste with salt, black pepper, and additional nutmeg or allspice if desired. Add a squeeze of lemon juice if the flavour requires balancing. Serve the dish hot, but not bubbling, topped with chopped chives or dill. It pairs well with steamed rice, mashed potatoes, sautéed potatoes, or wide egg noodles, which are common in the United States.
While the recipe calls for butter, a plant-based alternative, rapeseed oil, or olive oil can be used. If using plant-based cream alternatives, a spritz of lemon juice may be needed at the end to adjust the taste.
Source: The Guardian
